Are K-Beauty Spicules Really Microneedling? The Reedle Shot Trend Explained
What Are Spicules in Skincare? Explaining the K-Beauty Reedle Shot
If you've been scrolling through K-Beauty TikTok recently, you've probably come across spicule skincare - the trending Korean skincare technology often described online as "liquid microneedling".
From the viral VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot range to newer formulas combining spicules with ingredients such as PDRN, azelaic acid, retinol and collagen, spicule skincare has quickly become one of K-Beauty's most talked-about trends.
But what exactly are spicules? Why does Reedle Shot feel prickly when you apply it? Is it actually the same as microneedling? And what's the difference between VT Reedle Shot 50, 100, 300 and 700?
Here's everything you need to know before adding spicules to your skincare routine.
What are spicules in skincare?
Spicules are microscopic, needle-shaped structures, traditionally derived from marine or freshwater sponges that can be incorporated into topical skincare formulas.
When applied to the skin, these tiny structures interact with the outer layers of the skin and can create that tingling or prickling sensation associated with products such as VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot.
One of the reasons spicules have become so popular in Korean skincare is their use within formulas designed to support the delivery and absorption of accompanying skincare ingredients. Unlike traditional exfoliating acids, spicules aren't simply AHAs or BHAs. And despite the popular nickname, they aren't the same thing as professional micro-needling.
Is spicule skincare the same as microneedling?
No.
You'll frequently see spicule products described on TikTok and social media as "liquid microneedling" or "microneedling in a bottle", but these terms shouldn't be taken literally.
Professional micro-needling uses controlled needles to penetrate the skin at specific depths and deliberately create micro-injuries that trigger a wound-healing response.
Topical spicule skincare works much more superficially. Dermatologists interviewed about the trend distinguish spicules from professional microneedling and caution that topical spicule products shouldn't be considered a replacement for an in-clinic procedure.
So while "liquid microneedling" is a useful description of the prickling sensation and concept behind the trend, spicule skincare is better understood as its own category of topical skincare technology.
Why does Reedle Shot feel prickly?
If you've tried a spicule product before, you may have noticed a slight prickling or tingling sensation when applying it. That's associated with the microscopic needle-like structures within the formula interacting with the surface of the skin. Depending on the product, your skin and the intensity of the formula, the sensation can vary.
A mild prickling sensation can be expected with this type of product, but more discomfort doesn't mean better results.
If you experience significant burning, persistent redness, swelling or irritation, stop using the product and allow your skin to recover.
What is VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot?
VT Cosmetics has become one of the brands most closely associated with the current spicule skincare trend through its Reedle Shot range.
The collection uses VT's CICA REEDLE™ technology and is available in several strengths and targeted formulas.
Rather than offering just one Reedle Shot, VT has developed different versions depending on the intensity and skin concern you're looking to target.
This includes the well-known:
as well as targeted versions such as:
VT also categorises several of its Reedle Shot 100 formulas as suitable for beginners to Reedle Shot, with targeted versions focusing on concerns including firmness, dullness and stressed-looking skin.
VT Reedle Shot 50 vs 100 vs 300 vs 700: What's the difference?
One of the biggest questions surrounding VT Cosmetics is:
Which Reedle Shot should I use?
The important thing to understand is that 50, 100, 300 and 700 are not percentages of an active ingredient.
They represent different intensity levels within the Reedle Shot range.
As the level increases, the treatment becomes progressively more intensive, so you shouldn't automatically choose the highest number because you assume it will give you the "best" results.
VT Cosmetics Mild Reedle Shot 50
Best for: Beginners looking for a milder introduction to Reedle Shot.
VT Cosmetics Mild Reedle Shot 50 is the gentlest option within the core range stocked at Skin2Seoul.
If you've never used spicule skincare before or you're unsure how your skin will respond to the characteristic prickling sensation, starting with a lower-intensity option makes sense.
It allows you to introduce Reedle skincare gradually rather than immediately moving to one of the more intensive formulas.
Consider Reedle Shot 50 if:
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You're completely new to spicule skincare
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You prefer gentler active skincare
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You want to introduce Reedle technology gradually
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You're concerned about jumping straight into a more intensive formula
VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 100
Best for: Those looking for the classic Reedle Shot experience and a regular-use option.
VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 100 is perhaps the best-known product in the collection and has become one of the products most strongly associated with the viral Korean spicule skincare trend.
It offers a step up from the Mild 50 version while remaining one of the more approachable Reedle Shot options.
For many people looking to try the original VT Reedle Shot experience, 100 is a logical starting point.
Consider Reedle Shot 100 if:
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You want to try the original viral Reedle Shot
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You have some experience with active skincare
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You're looking to improve the appearance of texture
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You want a regular Reedle step within your evening routine
VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 300
Best for: More experienced Reedle Shot users looking for a more intensive treatment.
Reedle Shot 300 increases the intensity considerably compared with the 100 version.
For that reason, it's better suited to those who already understand how their skin responds to Reedle technology rather than someone purchasing their first spicule product.
It can be incorporated as a more occasional intensive treatment rather than assuming that a stronger formula needs to be used every day.
Consider Reedle Shot 300 if:
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You've already used lower Reedle Shot strengths
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Your skin tolerates spicule skincare well
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You're looking for more intensive texture care
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You don't need a daily Reedle treatment
VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot 700
Best for: Experienced Reedle Shot users seeking the most intensive option from the core range stocked at Skin2Seoul.
Reedle Shot 700 sits at the highest intensity of the 50–700 products in our current range.
This isn't where we'd recommend beginning your spicule skincare journey.
Instead, it's better suited to experienced users who have already built tolerance to lower Reedle Shot levels and understand how their skin responds.
Higher doesn't automatically mean better.
Choosing the appropriate strength for your skin and using it consistently is more important than jumping straight to the highest number.
Which VT Reedle Shot 100 is right for you?
VT has also expanded the Reedle Shot 100 concept into formulas targeting specific skin concerns.
This means you don't necessarily have to choose between increasingly high strengths. You can also choose a 100-level formula based on what your skin needs.
VT Cosmetics Vita-Light Reedle Shot 100
Best for: Dullness, uneven-looking skin tone and radiance.
VT Cosmetics Vita-Light Reedle Shot 100 combines Reedle technology with a formula designed specifically around brightness and clarity.
VT positions Vita-Light 100 towards dull-looking skin and blemish-related concerns, making it a good choice for those whose main priority is achieving a brighter, more even-looking complexion rather than simply choosing a higher Reedle intensity.
Choose Vita-Light Reedle Shot 100 if your main concerns are:
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Dull-looking skin
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Uneven-looking skin tone
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Lack of radiance
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Post-blemish appearance
VT Cosmetics Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100
Best for: Stressed, easily irritated or blemish-prone skin looking for a more soothing-focused Reedle formula.
VT Cosmetics Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100 combines the Reedle concept with a formula centred around soothing and calming care.
VT positions the product specifically towards stressed and sensitive-looking skin, making it an interesting option for those who want to explore Reedle skincare while prioritising calming ingredients.
However, genuinely reactive or compromised skin should still approach spicule skincare cautiously. A product containing soothing ingredients doesn't mean the spicules themselves cannot cause irritation.
Choose Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100 if your priorities are:
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Soothing care
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Stressed-looking skin
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Blemish-prone skin
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Maintaining comfortable hydration alongside Reedle care
VT Cosmetics Collagen Reedle Shot 100
Best for: Firmness, elasticity and visible signs of ageing.
VT Cosmetics Collagen Reedle Shot 100 takes the 100-level Reedle concept and pairs it with firming and elasticity-focused skincare.
VT specifically positions this version as daily skincare for firmness and elasticity.
It's therefore particularly suited to routines focused on maintaining plumpness and addressing visible loss of firmness.
Choose Collagen Reedle Shot 100 if your main concerns are:
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Loss of firmness
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Reduced elasticity
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Fine lines
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Ageing skin
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Plumpness
Which VT Reedle Shot should you choose?
As a simple guide:
| Your Skin Goal / Experience | Reedle Shot to Consider |
|---|---|
| Completely new to Reedle skincare | Mild Reedle Shot 50 |
| Want the classic Reedle experience | Reedle Shot 100 |
| Experienced user wanting more intensive care | Reedle Shot 300 |
| Advanced Reedle user | Reedle Shot 700 |
| Dullness and uneven-looking tone | Vita-Light Reedle Shot 100 |
| Soothing-focused care | Pro Cica Reedle Shot 100 |
| Firmness and elasticity | Collagen Reedle Shot 100 |
Remember: your skin concern and tolerance matter more than simply choosing the highest number.
Spicules + PDRN: The Next K-Beauty Combination
Another interesting development within spicule skincare is the combination of spicules with PDRN.
PDRN has become one of Korean skincare's most talked-about ingredients, particularly within formulas focused on skin conditioning, firmness and recovery.
Brands such as Mary & May are now combining PDRN with spicule technology and other targeted active ingredients.
Mary & May's current spicule collection includes Spicule Collagen PDRN Cream, Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream and Spicule Azelaic PDRN Spot Cream.
This creates another way to approach spicule skincare: rather than selecting a Reedle intensity, you can select a treatment based on the additional active ingredients and your specific skin concern.
Mary & May Spicule Collagen PDRN Cream
Best for: Firmness, elasticity and visible signs of ageing.
Mary & May Spicule Collagen PDRN Cream combines spicule technology with collagen and PDRN-focused care, making it particularly suited to routines targeting loss of firmness and uneven texture.
This is a different experience from a traditional Reedle Shot serum. It's a targeted cream that brings together several of K-Beauty's current skin-renewal trends in one formula.
Consider it if your main concerns are:
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Loss of firmness
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Fine lines
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Uneven texture
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Reduced elasticity
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Ageing skin
Mary & May Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream
Best for: Fine lines, texture and more intensive anti-ageing care.
Mary & May Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream combines spicules, retinol and PDRN in one targeted formula.
Because the product already combines spicule technology with a retinoid, it should be treated as an active skincare product rather than an ordinary moisturiser.
We wouldn't recommend piling additional retinol, retinal or strong exfoliating treatments into the same routine simply because they're already part of your usual skincare.
Consider it if your main concerns are:
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Fine lines
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Uneven skin texture
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Visible signs of ageing
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Loss of firmness
Mary & May Spicule Azelaic PDRN Spot Cream
Best for: Targeted blemishes, post-blemish marks and uneven texture.
Mary & May Spicule Azelaic PDRN Spot Cream combines spicules, azelaic acid and PDRN in a targeted 15g treatment.
Rather than applying it like a traditional all-over moisturiser, its spot-treatment format makes it particularly useful for areas where you're concerned about blemishes, post-blemish marks or uneven texture.
Consider it if your main concerns are:
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Blemishes
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Post-acne marks
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Uneven texture
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Localised areas of concern
If you'd like to understand azelaic acid in more detail, read our Azelaic Acid + Retinal K-Beauty Guide to learn how these trending actives work and how to incorporate them into your skincare routine.
How do you use spicule skincare?
The exact instructions depend on the product you're using, so always follow the directions provided for your specific formula.
As a general rule, Reedle-style treatments are applied to clean skin before the rest of your skincare routine.
A simple evening routine could look like:
Cleanser → Reedle Shot → Hydrating Serum → Moisturiser
Apply the Reedle product gently rather than aggressively rubbing or scrubbing the skin.
Follow with simple, hydrating and barrier-supporting skincare.
If you're new to spicules, avoid introducing several other new active ingredients at the same time. This makes it much easier to understand how your skin is responding.
What should you use after Reedle Shot?
After using a Reedle Shot, we'd keep the rest of your routine relatively simple.
Look for ingredients focused on hydration, soothing and barrier support, such as:
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Hyaluronic acid
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Panthenol
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Ceramides
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Centella Asiatica
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Beta-glucan
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Gentle peptides
A nourishing barrier moisturiser can be particularly useful as the final step.
And during the daytime, always finish your morning skincare routine with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.
Can you use Retinol or Retinal with Reedle Shot?
This depends heavily on the exact product.
Spicule skincare can already feel stimulating on the skin, while retinoids such as retinol and retinal can also cause dryness and irritation when introduced too quickly.
For beginners, we'd generally recommend separating a standalone Reedle Shot and a strong retinoid rather than immediately layering them together.
You could alternate evenings, for example:
Monday: Reedle Shot
Tuesday: Hydrating/barrier routine
Wednesday: Retinal
Thursday: Hydrating/barrier routine
However, some products, such as Mary & May Spicule Retinol PDRN Cream are specifically formulated to contain both technologies within a single product. In this situation, follow the directions for that finished formula rather than adding another retinoid on top.
Can you use Azelaic Acid with Reedle Shot?
Potentially, but again, more isn't necessarily better.
If you're using a standalone Reedle Shot and a separate higher-strength azelaic acid product, sensitive skin may benefit from using them at different times or on different days.
If you're using a product specifically formulated with both technologies, such as Mary & May Spicule Azelaic PDRN Spot Cream, follow the manufacturer's directions for that formula.
The key distinction is between ingredients that have been intentionally formulated together in one product and layering several separate active products yourself.
Can you use Vitamin C with Reedle Shot?
Some people may tolerate both, but we'd be cautious about introducing a strong vitamin C treatment at exactly the same time as a Reedle product.
If you're prone to sensitivity, use them at different times, for example, vitamin C in your morning routine and Reedle Shot on appropriate evenings.
Alternatively, choose a product such as VT Vita-Light Reedle Shot 100, where the brightening components have already been formulated as part of the Reedle product.
What should you avoid after Reedle Shot?
Immediately after a more intensive spicule treatment, we'd avoid unnecessarily overloading the skin with multiple potentially irritating actives.
Depending on your tolerance and the specific products involved, that may include:
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Strong exfoliating acids
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Additional high-strength retinoids
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Multiple exfoliating pads or peels
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Other spicule treatments
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Aggressive physical exfoliation
Instead, prioritise hydration and barrier care and avoid applying spicule products to broken, severely irritated or compromised skin.
Dermatologists discussing spicule skincare have cautioned that overuse can contribute to irritation and barrier disruption, particularly in sensitive or compromised skin.
Are spicules suitable for sensitive skin?
This requires a little more caution.
Some Reedle products contain soothing ingredients and are marketed towards sensitive-looking skin, but the physical nature of spicules means that they can still create a prickling sensation and may not suit everyone. If you have very reactive skin or an impaired skin barrier, introducing an intensive spicule treatment may not be appropriate.
Those with active inflammatory skin conditions or recently treated/procedural skin should be particularly cautious and seek professional advice if unsure. If you're simply new to active skincare rather than clinically sensitive, choosing a lower-intensity product and introducing it gradually is the more cautious approach.
Do spicules dissolve in your skin?
Spicules aren't intended to behave like permanent needles sitting inside your skin.
The sensation associated with a spicule product can remain for some time after application, which is one reason your skin may continue to feel slightly prickly when touched.
The exact behaviour depends on the material and technology used in the individual product, so we'd avoid making broad claims that every type of skincare spicule behaves identically.
Are spicules worth adding to your skincare routine?
Spicules are one of the most interesting technologies to emerge from the current generation of Korean skincare, particularly for people interested in texture, targeted active skincare and more intensive home treatments. You also don't need the strongest formula to benefit from the trend.
If you're new to Reedle skincare, start gradually and choose a product appropriate for your skin and concerns. For some people, that could mean VT Mild Reedle Shot 50. For others, Reedle Shot 100 may provide the classic VT experience they're looking for.
More experienced users may explore 300 or 700, while targeted versions such as Vita-Light, Pro Cica and Collagen Reedle Shot 100 allow you to choose based on your skin concern rather than intensity alone.
And newer formulas such as the Mary & May Spicule PDRN creams demonstrate how the trend is continuing to evolve, combining spicules with ingredients such as PDRN, collagen, retinol and azelaic acid. Mary & May currently lists all three of these spicule treatments within its range.
Ultimately, the best spicule product isn't necessarily the one with the biggest number or the strongest sensation. It's the one that suits your skin, your experience level and the concern you're actually trying to target.
Explore the latest Korean spicule skincare and VT Cosmetics Reedle Shot products at Skin2Seoul to find the right treatment for your routine.